LOT 49: A Fine Georgian English Portrait Miniature of an Elegant Lady Wearing a Feathered Silk Hat, circa 1800 – Gold-Plated Pendant Frame with Elaborate Hairwork on the Reverse

A fine English portrait miniature from the Georgian period, dating to circa 1800, depicting an elegant lady with delicate facial features, dressed in accordance with the fashions of high society during the late 18th and early 19th centuries. The portrait depicts a young woman in a half-length composition, with her face turned slightly to one side and her gaze directed towards the viewer. Her expression is serene and natural, her lips are delicately rendered, and her cheeks have a slight rosy tint. Her light-coloured eyes and direct gaze give the portrait a sense of personal presence. Her dark brown hair is arranged in small, tight curls framing her forehead and the sides of her face, in keeping with women's fashion during the late Georgian period. She wears a broad hat, apparently made of cream-pink silk, adorned with large, light-coloured feathers cascading along the right side of the portrait. The hat is characterised by soft fabric folds and a delicate sheen, reflecting the artist's attention to the textures of the fabric and feathers. Her shoulders and neck are partly exposed, and she wears a light-coloured dress with a wide neckline, with a coral-red shawl draped over one shoulder. The background, in warm shades of golden brown and smoky grey, emphasises her face and pale hat, creating a balanced colour contrast between the skin tones, dark hair, and reddish shawl. The portrait is characterised by soft treatment of the facial features and relatively rich colouring, together with a stylised rendering of the clothing and hat. The Frame and Hairwork on the Reverse The miniature is mounted in an oval pendant frame made of thickly gold-plated metal, of the type known as Shell Gold, with relatively smooth borders and a suspension ring at the top. Both the front and reverse of the work are protected by glass. The reverse of the frame incorporates elaborate human hairwork composed of several decorative elements. Along the inner perimeter of the frame is a closely woven braid of dark brown hair, arranged in a plaited pattern surrounding the oval compartment. At the centre of the reverse is a brown lock of hair, arranged in a curling circular pattern against a silver-coloured background with delicate radiating decoration. The lower part of the lock of hair is gathered with several small, light-coloured beads, forming a decorative knot. The silver-coloured background reflects light and emphasises the shape of the lock of hair and the delicate texture of the hairwork. The combination of the surrounding braided hair and the central lock creates a richly decorative composition characteristic of memorial jewellery and personal keepsakes from the Georgian period. Historical Background – Hairwork and Memorial Jewellery During the 18th and 19th centuries, a tradition developed in Britain of incorporating human hair into jewellery and objects of personal and family significance. Locks of hair were sometimes preserved as keepsakes from family members, spouses, and loved ones, and were incorporated into pendants, brooches, rings, and miniature frames. In some cases, such jewellery was used to commemorate the deceased, while in others it was created as a keepsake of love, friendship, or family attachment. Hairwork was sometimes executed in elaborate patterns of braiding, curling, and arranging locks against decorative backgrounds, occasionally incorporating beads, tiny pearls, or metal ornaments. The present miniature represents this tradition through the combination of a personal portrait on the front and decorative hairwork on the reverse. Artistic Background – Portrait Miniature Painting in England circa 1800 During the late 18th and early 19th centuries, Britain was one of the most important centres in Europe for miniature portrait painting. Portrait miniatures were sought after among members of the aristocracy, high society, and the affluent classes, and served as personal keepsakes, gifts between spouses, and objects intended to preserve the likenesses of loved ones. Among the prominent miniature painters active during this period were Richard Cosway (1742–1821), George Engleheart (1750–1829), John Smart (1741–1811), and Andrew Plimer (1763–1837). Miniature paintings of the period were characterised by delicate treatment of facial features, soft colour transitions, and meticulous depiction of hairstyles, fabrics, and jewellery. The present portrait belongs to this artistic tradition in terms of its general characteristics, although the identity of the artist remains unknown. Artistic and Collecting Significance The miniature combines an elegant female portrait from the Georgian period, a feathered silk hat, a thickly gold-plated pendant frame, and elaborate hairwork on the reverse. The meticulous rendering of the hat and feathers, the natural facial expression, and the balanced colouring give the portrait artistic interest. The hairwork on the reverse, consisting of a surrounding braid and a central lock of hair against a silver-coloured background, adds a personal and historical dimension to the work and emphasises its possible original function as a family or sentimental keepsake. **Artist:** Unknown – English School **Date:** Circa 1800 **Period:** Georgian **Country of Origin:** England **Genre:** Half-Length Portrait Miniature of a Lady **Technique:** Watercolour, bodycolour, or oil on a natural substrate **Height:** Slightly over 5.7 cm **Frame:** Oval pendant frame made of thickly gold-plated metal (Shell Gold) **Front and Reverse:** Protected by glass **Reverse:** Human hairwork, incorporating a surrounding braid and a central lock of hair against a silver-coloured background **Signature:** None identified; the reverse of the painting has not been examined **Provenance:** Private Collection Due to the delicate construction of the frame, the work has not been removed for examination. Inspection of the reverse of the painting might reveal further details concerning the artist or the identity of the lady depicted.

Auction 02: Rare 18th–19th Century Portrait Miniatures & Mourning Jewellery — Melis Antiques & Art