An exceptionally small, refined and high-quality portrait miniature from the eighteenth century, depicting a young lady with golden-brown curly hair, wearing a green dress and a soft white shawl falling over her shoulders. The work was executed in watercolours on a natural substrate and is set in a circular brooch frame made of gold, decorated at the top and sides with ribbon and bow motifs set with tiny rose-cut diamonds (Rose-Cut Diamonds). The miniature is characterised by delicate colouring and soft treatment of the facial features, curls and folds of fabric. The brooch frame has a richly jewelled character, combining the art of miniature painting with goldsmith's work and diamond decoration. The combination of the work's tiny dimensions, the quality of the painting and the diamond-set frame gives the piece particular artistic, historical, jewellery and collectible interest. Description of the Portrait The young lady is depicted half-length, with her shoulders turned slightly to one side and her face directed towards the viewer's right, in a three-quarter view. Her face has a refined oval shape, fair skin in pearly tones, light greyish-brown eyes, thin, carefully shaped eyebrows and a calm, restrained expression. Her forehead is relatively broad, her nose straight and delicate, her lips small and pinkish, and her cheeks illuminated by soft shading. Her gaze is directed to one side, giving the figure a sense of gentle distance alongside a personal and intimate presence. The treatment of the facial features is characterised by soft colour transitions and delicate shading around the eyes, nose and mouth. Despite the painting's tiny dimensions, attention to the depiction of the expression and to creating a sense of volume and softness is evident. The Hairstyle and Hair The lady's hair is golden-brown, with shades of light brown, dark blonde and muted gold. The hair is arranged in an elaborate hairstyle of curls and rounded locks, giving the head volume in its upper part. A light ribbon in a creamy-white shade is wrapped around the head and incorporated into the hairstyle. At the back of the head, the hair is gathered and arranged in curled groups, while soft locks fall towards the nape and shoulders. The hairstyle reflects characteristics of European women's fashion in the second half of the eighteenth century, when elaborate hairstyles, curls and hair ribbons were customary among women of the affluent classes. The Green Dress and White Shawl The lady wears a dress in a deep green shade, tending towards bluish-green. The dress is visible around the shoulders and breast and is depicted through thin layers of colour and delicate shading. A soft white shawl is wrapped around the neck and shoulders, falling in broad folds over the breast. The shawl is depicted in shades of white, cream and light grey, creating a sense of transparency and lightness. In the lower part of the breast area, a small floral decoration is visible in shades of green, blue and yellow. The combination of the green dress and white shawl emphasises the light skin tones and gives the portrait harmonious and refined colouring. The Background and Artistic Composition The background is rendered in soft shades of cream, light grey and pearly white. The light colouring creates a delicate contrast with the golden-brown hair and green dress. The painting is characterised by soft tonal transitions and delicate shading, giving the figure a sense of depth. The circular composition focuses attention on the lady's face and hairstyle. The combination of the light-coloured portrait with the dark, diamond-set jewellery frame creates an interesting visual contrast. The Brooch Frame – Gold and Rose-Cut Diamonds The miniature is set in a circular brooch frame with relatively narrow edges in a warm gold tone. At the top of the frame is a decorative motif of a large ribbon bow, designed with rounded, interlacing loops. Additional ribbon decorations extend down both sides of the frame, creating a relatively symmetrical composition. The ribbon decorations are set with tiny rose-cut diamonds (Rose-Cut Diamonds). The diamonds are incorporated along the loops and bows, creating small points of light on the surface of the dark metal. The frame is made of gold. The design of the ribbons and bows gives the frame a richly jewelled character, recalling traditions of decorative jewellery from the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. Rose-Cut Diamonds The rose cut is one of the historical styles of diamond cutting. Diamonds cut in this style are generally characterised by a relatively flat base and a domed upper surface composed of triangular facets, creating a structure reminiscent of a rosebud. This cut was common in European jewellery during the seventeenth, eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. Unlike modern cuts, which emphasise maximum light return, rose-cut diamonds produce delicate, soft flashes of light. Diamonds of this kind were sometimes incorporated into small jewels, brooches, rings and miniature frames. In the present frame, the diamonds serve to emphasise the outlines of the decorative ribbons and bows. The Reverse of the Brooch and Its Fastening Mechanism The reverse of the frame consists of a circular metal surface in a warm gold tone, with a relatively smooth appearance. At the top of the reverse, the connecting components of the ribbon decorations and decorative bow are visible. A metal brooch mechanism is fitted across the upper part of the reverse, consisting of a long pin, hinge and catch. At the lower part of the reverse, a small metal ring is visible, which may indicate the possibility of attaching an additional component or a combined jewellery use. Signs of age and use are visible on the metal surface, including localised colour variations and dark spots. The construction of the brooch indicates that the piece was intended to be worn on clothing. The Symbolic Significance of Ribbon and Bow Decorations Ribbon and bow motifs were common in European jewellery design during the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. They served as decorative ornaments and were sometimes symbolically associated with ideas of love, fidelity and personal attachment. The ribbon bow, particularly when incorporated into sentimental jewellery, could suggest an emotional bond between spouses or family members. In the present miniature, the ribbon decorations create a rich frame around the lady's portrait and emphasise the personal character of the jewel. Historical Background – Europe in the Eighteenth Century During the eighteenth century, a rich culture of personal portraits, jewellery and luxury objects developed in Europe. Members of the aristocracy and affluent classes commissioned portrait miniatures intended to serve as personal keepsakes or gifts. Miniatures were sometimes incorporated into gold, silver or other metal frames, and were occasionally decorated with gemstones and diamonds. The tiny format made it possible to carry the likeness of a loved one as a personal jewel. The combination of miniature painting with luxurious goldsmith's work reflects the close relationship between portrait art and the decorative arts of the period. Artistic Background – Portrait Miniatures in the Eighteenth Century During the eighteenth century, the art of miniature painting in England and Europe reached an exceptionally high artistic standard. Among the prominent artists active in this field were Richard Cosway (1742–1821), John Smart (1741–1811), George Engleheart (1750–1829), Richard Crosse (1742–1810) and Andrew Plimer (1763–1837). These artists developed delicate painting methods based on the use of thin layers of colour, soft shading and accurate depiction of facial features. Female portrait miniatures frequently emphasised the sitter's hairstyle, clothing and personal expression. The portraits were incorporated into jewellery frames and were sometimes preserved for generations as family objects. The present miniature displays these characteristics through the delicate treatment of the face, curls and white shawl. Stylistic Context – The Portrait Tradition of Richard Cosway Stylistically, the miniature may be considered within the context of the English miniature painting tradition associated with Richard Cosway (1742–1821). Cosway was known for female portraits characterised by light skin tones, airy hair, soft colouring and transparent colour transitions. He frequently depicted women with elaborate hairstyles, hair ribbons and light-coloured dresses. The present miniature displays general characteristics reminiscent of this tradition, particularly in the soft treatment of the face, the curly hairstyle and the light colouring. Portrait Miniatures as Luxury Jewellery Portrait miniatures set into jewellery were objects of particular personal and material significance. They were sometimes worn on the body, kept in jewellery boxes or passed down through generations of the family. The combination of a personal portrait with a diamond-set frame gave the piece additional material and decorative value. Jewellery of this kind was common among the affluent classes, but its principal significance was often familial and emotional. Artistic and Collectible Significance The miniature combines a high-quality female portrait from the eighteenth century with a gold brooch frame decorated with ribbon and bow motifs and tiny rose-cut diamonds. The refined treatment of the facial features, hair and details of clothing gives the figure a personal presence and pictorial quality. The brooch frame constitutes an independent artistic element, owing to the design of the ribbons and bows and the delicate setting of the diamonds. The work's tiny dimensions emphasise the skill required to paint it and to produce the frame. The combination of miniature painting, goldsmith's work and rose-cut diamonds makes the piece an interesting example of portrait art and personal jewellery from the eighteenth century. --- **Artist:** Unidentified artist, most probably of the English School. **Sitter:** Unidentified young lady. **Date:** Eighteenth century. **Period:** Eighteenth century, late Georgian period according to style. **Country of Origin:** England. **Genre:** Female portrait miniature, half-length, set in a jewellery brooch. **Technique:** Watercolours on natural substrate. **Dimensions:** Brooch diameter approximately 2.6 cm. **Frame:** Circular gold frame with ribbon and bow decorations set with rose-cut diamonds. **Gemstones:** Tiny rose-cut diamonds. **Mechanism:** Brooch for wearing on clothing. **Front:** Circular miniature protected by a transparent cover. **Reverse:** Circular metal surface with brooch mechanism and a small connecting ring at the bottom. **Provenance:** Private Collection.
Auction 02: Rare 18th–19th Century Portrait Miniatures & Mourning Jewellery — Melis Antiques & Art